• Top lodging and dining picks for every budget • A museum for everyone—paintings by Brueghel and Rubens, 17th-century tapestries, Renaissance musical instruments, modern comic strips •  Great places to sample Belgian specialties, including beer, waffles, mussels, and frites •  The best shops for chocolates and for fashions by local designers •  Enchanting architecture, from medieval squares to Gothic churches to art nouveau landmarks •  Canal cruises in Bruges, scenic strolls in Brussels •  After dark: bars, cafés, and venues for opera and contemporary dance